In macOS 13 (Ventura), how do you select a specific screen resolution now?

I eventually stumbled onto the answer (lots of clicking with/without option or command key, etc): if you right-click on the icons you'll get the option to show a list of resolutions and you can choose the resolution you're looking for. Right-clicking on the list gives the option to show the abbreviated set of icons again.

It's a rather hidden behavior since you wouldn't expect to be able to right-click here but it's arguably not as hidden as the old option key method. Unfortunately, the macOS User Guide for the new Displays panel doesn't provide the answer and even still refers to elements of the old Displays panel that are no longer present.

Thanks! As you can see from my simultaneous reply, I eventually found the answer by accidentally right-clicking. (I must have held down the control key while trying the other modifier keys.)