Assuming you're using the exact same printer profiles as before, then what you're seeing at the printer is being influenced by the new monitor profile.
That's (largely) how ColorSync works, and is the same procedure in Windows.
This is basically what it does. If the image has an embedded profile (which it should to have any hope at all of matching the color), the image is first converted in the background to the monitor profile. The entire idea of the first step being to try and match the color data to what you're viewing. The second step is to convert that conversion to the printer profile. Finally, that color information is sent to the printer.
Photoshop, as an example, does the same thing. It doesn't matter what profile is attached to the image you're viewing, or what color space you have PS set to for the RGB working space. It is always converting the image color to your monitor's profile for viewing purposes.
Anyway, canned profiles that come with stand-lone monitors, or built-in display panels such as with an iMac are generally useless. You can try playing with the printer settings, but it will likely be rather frustrating with a lot of paper and ink wasted in the process.
You could try to create a new profile with the built-in Calibrate function, but that is equally useless. The function can't see, or know what you're looking at. It's all guesswork by the OS.
If you're serious about color, the first and least expensive color management hardware you should get is something to properly calibrate and profile your monitor.
X-Rite sells the ColorChecker Display, ColorChecker Display Pro, and the ColorChecker Display Plus. If you don't need the extra features of the Pro or Plus, the base unit will be fine.
I can't stress enough to use D50 as the gray balance. 6500K (D65) is by far the dumbest default in the history of computers. Normal daylight color is never that blue. D50 is what the professional printing industry uses.