WiFi versus ethernet
is switching automatic between ethernet and wifi connection to a network
MacBook Pro (2017 – 2020)
You can make a difference in the Apple Support Community!
When you sign up with your Apple Account, you can provide valuable feedback to other community members by upvoting helpful replies and User Tips.
When you sign up with your Apple Account, you can provide valuable feedback to other community members by upvoting helpful replies and User Tips.
is switching automatic between ethernet and wifi connection to a network
MacBook Pro (2017 – 2020)
All interfaces are used, however,
Packets going to the Internet are sent to the TOPMOST, working interface listed in
system preferences > networks.
Use the gear icon below the list of interfaces to "set service order" to make Ethernet TOPMOST. Then when Ethernet is working (due to cable connected and Router responding) Ethernet will be used preferentially. Then when Ethernet is not available, Wi-Fi will be used.
if doing a file transfer to a local device, that traffic will NOT be sent onto the Internet. Typically, only the Switch portion of your Router will be used to send those packets locally, using the best pathway available.
Your Mac also uses Discovery protocol, typically on IPv6 when set to 'Link-local' or better, to poke around your network and discover available resources like file servers and Printers.
All interfaces are used, however,
Packets going to the Internet are sent to the TOPMOST, working interface listed in
system preferences > networks.
Use the gear icon below the list of interfaces to "set service order" to make Ethernet TOPMOST. Then when Ethernet is working (due to cable connected and Router responding) Ethernet will be used preferentially. Then when Ethernet is not available, Wi-Fi will be used.
if doing a file transfer to a local device, that traffic will NOT be sent onto the Internet. Typically, only the Switch portion of your Router will be used to send those packets locally, using the best pathway available.
Your Mac also uses Discovery protocol, typically on IPv6 when set to 'Link-local' or better, to poke around your network and discover available resources like file servers and Printers.
All available network paths are used, among all such paths available. Which is used for a particular packet depends on available routes, and — lacking a specific route — which is configured as the default.
When first connecting, known Wi-Fi networks will be selected, as available. If multiple paths — technically NICs, whether Wi-Fi, wired Ethernet, or otherwise — are available and connected, see above.
JT425 wrote:
…Ethernet is faster…
For many cases, that answer is correct. But that answer depends on which Wi-Fi. Wi-Fi 6 is speedy, and can be or is faster than gigabit Ethernet. And that also depends on which wired Ethernet. Gigabit is common, but faster wired networking is also available.
I have a 2015 Macbook pro. I was having issues with only Hulu Live buffering, but not any other apps. Hulu suggested I contact my internet co. I pay for 500 internet speed with Spectrum and my wifi speed test has been around 140. Spectrum came out and connected my ethernet and suggested I use ethernet since it would be faster. He showed me with his ethernet cable and it was. His connection showed close to or above 500. I have never had to use ethernet, always used wifi. I later purchased a connector to connect my ethernet cable to my Mac and router, and ethernet is slower than my wifi. Is this normal? What did I do wrong?
You'll need to determine what the Wi-Fi configuration is.
What is possible here depends on your Wi-Fi router, and its firmware.
Getting 140 mbps is usually Wi-Fi 4 / IEEE 802.11n speeds, or interference or other issues. Wi-Fi 4 started around 2008.
A ~seven year old Mac won't have the fastest Wi-Fi connection. Per Apple, it is capable of Wi-Fi 5 / IEEE 802.11ac.
Wi-Fi can be notoriously fickle too, and particularly around interference. I use an add-on app (WiFi Explorer) to check for other Wi-Fi networks, and other Wi-Fi issues.
The systems I deal with will use a mix of Wi-Fi and wired connections, and some will be using both. The wired connections I deal with are mostly gigabit (1000 mbps) with a few faster than that, and your gear is likely limited to gigabit.
Most wired connections should be most of a gigabit, though that depends on the adapter.
macOS add-ons including add-on anti-malware apps, add-on cleaner apps, add-on first-few-hops VPN client apps, and such, can degrade performance. If you're looking for speed, look to remove these, at least for testing.
You really should start a new discussion with a title that will attract the readers you want to read your query and respond.
But there is one obvious possibility if your internet speed is stuck at 100 M bits/sec.
Speeds up to 100 use essentially baseband signaling on TWO pairs of wires. Faster requires a modulated signal, so you for increased spectrum you MUST have all FOUR pairs available and connected correctly.
Eeeks! Thank you!, but most of that is over my head! 1. I believe switching from living in a home to now an apt. building has made my internet connection now my daily job, sucks! Isn't it true interference and others (like weekend gamers) using up your bandwith? 2. I just checked my wifi speed on my iPhone and it's over 500, which is great since I pay for 500! 3. I know my laptop is not getting great wifi and I'm unsure if the ethernet was connected accurately (a me issue), now need to contact Spectrum to get some tech support on that. 4. I contacted Netgear for my Orbit router yesterday (Sunday) thinking it may be my router. The service I had got me no where because they need payment for an extended warranty so they can troubleshoot and that was SO challenging for them to receive payment bc my bank keeps thinking it's a fraud issue and the customer service including her manager was so difficult to communicate with.
March2023 wrote:
Eeeks! Thank you!, but most of that is over my head! 1. I believe switching from living in a home to now an apt. building has made my internet connection now my daily job, *****! Isn't it true interference and others (like weekend gamers) using up your bandwith?
Wi-Fi interference can be from uncoordinated networks, leaky microwave ovens, and all manner of other sources. Some of the older Apple Wi-Fi gear I’ve worked with has had unexplained ~15 second signal dropouts, too. That gear was aging, and got replaced.
2. I just checked my wifi speed on my iPhone and it's over 500, which is great since I pay for 500!
Presumably an iPhone with Wi-Fi 5 or newer. That also implies the Wi-Fi network and the router are both working.
3. I know my laptop is not getting great wifi and I'm unsure if the ethernet was connected accurately (a me issue), now need to contact Spectrum to get some tech support on that.
Which MacBook or MacBook Pro or MacBook Air, and which model year? Older Macs will have older Wi-Fi, and can also tend to build up sometimes problematic apps including anti-malware apps or cleaners or add-on security apps.
If you’re not sure, download and run EtreCheck, and share the report to the clipboard. Then open a new reply here, and press the Additional Text button (that looks like a printed page) to get a text input box big enough to paste the hardware and software configuration report here, and paste and post that report here.
4. I contacted Netgear for my Orbit router yesterday (Sunday) thinking it may be my router. The service I had got me no where because they need payment for an extended warranty so they can troubleshoot and that was SO challenging for them to receive payment bc my bank keeps thinking it's a fraud issue and the customer service including her manager was so difficult to communicate with.
I have not run NETGEAR, and am unfamiliar with its details.
Local preference is toward Zyxel, Ubiquiti, and Synology, which tend to be higher-spec.
Another option is a local computer shop that offers network installation and troubleshooting.
Here, I’d acquire and try an Ethernet (Category 6 or newer) patch cable. Older Ethernet cables can have wiring problems, and some can have fewer conductors that would be needed for Gigabit Ethernet speeds, and try that.
@Mr Hoffman,
Thank you! I determined my wifi and router were working. I do use the Cat 6 in case I have to use ethernet cable. I may have found the issue. Spectrum or Netgear were not helpful. Netgear customer service was challenging and all they really wanted was to sell me an extended warranty. I did a complete reset on my Orbi (Netgear) router. Later tested turning off my VPN and THAT was the issue! When I turned off my VPN the speed is around 400 and on was around 90 speed. I have my VPN on my iPhone and it doesn't slow it down and yes, it's probably because it's a 5 new phone. That brings me back to my laptop which is circa 2015. Probably time to get a new laptop, have a MacBook Pro early 2015. My 2008 Mac desktop is still kicking, but hardly use it. Hard to get a new computer when it still does the job. I think now it's time :/ btw, how do you know when your microwave is leaking?
An add-on VPN protects against issues which haven’t existed for a decade or so, and badly, while centralizing and identifying your network activities for best tracking. You’re basically paying to get your traffic intercepted, and it appears from some discussions around here that a few VPNs have added means of decrypting your traffic, and all this to provide a scheme that is at best weak second wrapper of encryption given widespread knowledge of the VPN credentials. I mean, if you want your traffic tracked and monitored and logged, such. But… why?
Local rule of thumb: add-on security products getting massive hype aren’t necessarily even security products, and too often have other privacy-sucking side-effects. There have been some well-known add-ons that were effectively malware, one Apple-related example of which was caught selling its users personally-identified web browsing and web-purchasing history.
A leaky microwave can have an ill-fitting door, or corrosion, or other damage. Cabling can leak noise, too. Motors, as well. Some environments can be stupidly noisy. A Wi-Fi signal scanner can detect the noise floor for Wi-Fi, and a high noise floor usually means something is leaking signals. I use WiFi Explorer on macOS, though the built-in Wi-Fi tools on macOS can show the noise.
<< btw, how do you know when your microwave is leaking? >>
Microwave ovens throw a minute, allowable, and non-dangerous amount of microwave energy even when working perfectly with all seals intact.
Microwave ovens were initially developed by a Raytheon Microwave and Power Tube engineer who noticed that the chocolate bar in his pocket was getting mushy when he worked around certain power tube equipment. At that time Raytheon also owned Amana Appliance company, and these devices were Initially marketed as 'Radar Range'.
Microwave ovens existed before we tried to use that same 'unused' part of the spectrum for 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi. It was only after it was all in wide use that the interference was seen. Today, we just work around it.
Yes, if both are selected in Network setting. Wi-fi is necessary along with Bluetooth if you are using Airdrop. Ethernet is faster but most can't discern the difference.
WiFi versus ethernet