The reason you don't see the setting is because you have selected the Classic view in Recents in the Phone app. You need to change this to Unified before the button becomes available in Settings.
1. First, open the Phone app and tap Recents in the bottom menu
2. Tap the 3-line button in the top right and select Unified
3. Now go to Settings > Apps > Phone > scroll down and disable Tap Recents to Call
You will now be able to tap on your recent contacts to see contact information in Recent. There will be a call icon to the far right of the contact in the view.