KSGart wrote:
I just want to securely erase it and send it to recycling
Then that is much easier to do.
Assuming the internal Hard Drive is still reasonably healthy, you can create a bootable ShredOS USB stick which you can use to write zeroes to the whole physical Hard Drive. You can use just about any recent computer or OS to create the bootable ShredOS USB stick. Just use the downloaded ISO or IMG file as a source for Etcher (Mac, Windows, Linux) which will make the bootable USB stick for you.
Then you will need to Option Boot the Mac by holding the Option key immediately after hearing the startup chime in order to access the Apple boot picker menu where you will select the orange icon labeled "EFI".
You should be able to use the first link for the Vanilla v0.38 64bit IMG file.
Keep in mind that it can take hours or even a day or two depending on how large the Hard Drive is and its health & speed.
Here is a YouTube video showing how to use ShredOS.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Cl-LtK39rs
Just ignore the Windows section at the beginning of the video and start watching at the 1:40 mark where it shows ShredOS booting (it will look the same on a Mac at that point).....just follow my instructions above to create & boot the ShredOS USB stick. The 1:45 mark is the point where ShredOS has finished booting & is sitting at its main interface. It is a very simple & crude looking interface, but don't be turned off by it....it just allows it to run on just about any compatible computer regardless of system resources & age. The ShredOS session ends at the 3:54 mark. After that they use a Windows PC to review the log file & results......you can just as easily connect that ShredOS USB stick to a Mac to do the same (assuming it was able to save the log).
I would just select the simplest options for ShredOS such as:
- Single pass erase
- Write zeroes, but you can choose the PRMG method they used in the video as well although PRMG may be slower on such an old system.
- Verification Off -- No need for this and it will just take even longer assuming the drive is healthy enough to survive a single pass anyway, but if you want it verified, then I would choose "Verify Last Pass" so that you have the best chance of actually completely erasing the Hard Drive before the drive physically fails in case the drive is not healthy. Verification is a luxury, but getting as much of the Hard Drive erased is the critical thing.