I am getting seriously frustrated for the last couple of weeks. My Magic Mouse is disconnecting very frequently and this is becoming annoying. I checked everything, batteries, etc...everything is fine. and still facing the same issue again...
This is really boring.
I'm getting the same issue, and if you look around on the web, it seems to be a pretty widespread thing particularly when it is connected to the Mac Pros. I have a MacBook Pro and a Mac Pro, and I have never had a connection issue on my MacBook. However, I can't say the same with my Mac Pro.
Are you using a Mac Pro with the magic mouse?
I've read there are ways to fix it by mixing up the airport cables with the bluetooth cables, though that was on older mac pros (mine is 2010) and on mine I can't find where it is located.
Currently, I am talking with apple for help and see if they can work it out. Had me do a basic reset of everything.
Sorry, for the reset he had me unplug the power and reset the PRAM (cmdopt+pr on startup). No idea if that will work, as I've done that before for other purposes, though it's never actually helped me fix any problems before.
I have the same annoying problem with my Magic Mouse and my Mac Pro (2006 model). Sometimes, it stalls and then I can see a white mouse on my display saying "Disconnected". Really annoying especially when playing a game on a network with other players !!!
As I had not purchased my Mac Pro with Blue Tooth inside, I bought a Belkin usb adaptor on the Apple Store. It used to work like a charm, but I have this problem since 2 weeks or so… 😟
Perhaps something wrong with Mac OS X 10.6.6 ?
I've found that almost all of my Magic Mouse disconnects were caused by poor battery contact within the mouse. It seems that it is possible for a small jolt or shock, such as what occurs when you lift the mouse to reposition it can cause the batter terminals to monetarily loose contact.
Are you using rechargeable batteries ? I'm using Apple's charger. I have just put true 1.5V AA batteries instead of the 1,2V Apple batteries. The problem's corrected ! Try and tell us if it works to you.
Yeah, I think that is true. I think the battery does disconnect sometimes, cause I have noticed that if my mouse starts acting up that if I give it a little whack or tap on the table, it starts working again.
That's interesting you say you have a bluetooth adaptor and you're still getting the issue. That tells me it's not the bluetooth chip inside the newer macs.
I wonder, do people have disconnection issues with the bluetooth keyboards? If it's just the magic mouse, then that would narrow it down to specifically the magic mouse which then could either be the batteries or some software glitch.
Hmmm I think we are on the right track. It probably has to do with a poor contact. But another question then : Why do we have more and more disconnections for 2 weeks or so ?
Maybe the rechargeable batteries sold by Apple get a problem after a while ?
Maybe the voltage isn't high enough (1.2V instead of 1.5V for disposable batteries)
I believe I understand now why I am facing this issue.
I spent a day yesterday using it at my home on my MBP, IMAC and other MBP I have. NO issue at all.
At the office, i caught a lot of bluetooth devices when looking at my Bluetooth preferences. Even if they are not coupled with my MBP, I believe they create a lot of interferences...
I believe I understand now why I am facing this issue.
I spent a day yesterday using it at my home on my MBP, IMAC and other MBP I have. NO issue at all.
At the office, i caught a lot of bluetooth devices when looking at my Bluetooth preferences. Even if they are not coupled with my MBP, I believe they create a lot of interferences...
Hope this is the issue.
Maybe. That could be part of it in some cases. I am having issues though and the only bluetooth device in the vicinity is the magic mouse
It could be a contact issue as well. Try to add a little piece of synthetic foam upon the batteries so that the cover's pressing a little bit on it when closed. The batteries won't move any more. It could solve the problem. Let us know.
I'm having the same problem. I have tried both rechargeable and non-rechargeable batteries. I have used both 1.2 and 1.5 volt batteries and notice no difference between them. I have a 27" IMAC, now about 15 months old and the disconnect problem started about a week ago. I have cleaned the contacts in the mouse, repositioned the batteries by spinning them in position and sometimes this works and other times it doesn't. When I get disconnected the little light on the bottom of the mouse is still on which means there is some power but whether or not a strong enough signal is being sent to the computer I cannot tell. This is VERY frustrarating!!!
Exact… I do agree right now. I found something else :
Try to insert a little bit of synthetic foam on between top of the 2 batteries when they are in place so that the foam firmly keep them without moving. Close the back door and as the batteries cannot move any more the issue will be hopefully corrected as well. Please, give it a try and come back to tell me.
I have the same problem with the Magic Mouse disconnections. I tried inserting a piece of cardboard on top of the batteries to prevent them from moving about, closed the cover and now the disconnects seem to have disappeared. Hope this helps.
I am having a similar problem to all of you, but slightly different...
I am using the Magic Mouse and Apple's rechargeable batteries, have it paired with my latest rev iMac w/ 10.6.6, and had no problems with it until a few weeks ago. It's not disconnecting, but all of a sudden clicking and scrolling will become unresponsive for several seconds (tracking still works), then all of a sudden, clicking will work again, but scrolling will not. Scrolling then will not work again until I turn off the mouse, turn it back on, and let it reconnect. Then, it will work for a minute or two (scrolling, clicking, and tracking), but then the cycle repeats itself. Very frustrating.
The loose battery connection doesn't make sense for this problem because tracking continues to work regardless.
Any other thoughts suggestions? Maybe this warrants a new thread.