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Keyboard/Mousepad Freezes

My keyboard/mousepad freezes from time to time. I can restart via power button or simply close the lid. When I reopen the lid the optical drive makes a noise and the mac acts as if nothing ever happened and my data is OK. I don't know why the lid switch still works as a kind of "sleep" button but it does. The power button also works but you can't make any subsequent choices using the keyboard or mouse pad after the freeze. Hardware issue?

Macbook Pro 15, Mac OS X (10.5.2)

Posted on Jun 21, 2008 1:01 AM

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119 replies

Mar 14, 2009 12:57 PM in response to georose

Apple Support recommended a reinstall of the OS as the "next step" in resolving the lock situation. It didn't help. The tech support person I spoke with does look into forum messages for info. He was going to read this thread after my call to him. I do not plan on having my Macbook Pro disassembled for "trial and error" fixes at this time. In my opinion, the possible cure would be worse than the disease.

Mar 16, 2009 6:42 AM in response to georose

Hi Folks,

Like so many of you my Macbook Pro (it's a Penryn, not an "original") running 10.5.6 has suffered from random trackpad/keyboard freezes/glitches for months. Logs revealed the source of the issue:

AppleUSBMultitouchDriver::message - kIOUSBMessagePortHasBeenReset

Addressing this as a software or memory issue - using a new user, resetting PRAM and power manager, etc. - yielded no results.

-> UNLESS someone can show that this affected machines ≤10.5.5 (I've seen no discussion of this aspect of "kIOUSBMessagePortHasBeenReset" anywhere) I think it's a hardware issue. <-

Specifically, the exposed trackpad and keyboard cables between the "top case" and the battery. Trying to insulate cables from battery heat/expansion using electric tape, rolled up post-it notes and the like reduced the instances of "kIOUSBMessagePortHasBeenReset" but did not eliminate them.

I took this to my Apple Store in Short Pump, VA (a top notch outfit all around), spoke with a Genius and documented all of my unsuccessful troubleshooting strategies. Using AppleCare they replaced the "top case" and my MBP has been "AppleUSBMultitouchDriver::message - kIOUSBMessagePortHasBeenReset" free for a week.

Looking in, I've noticed the new top case/cables have added insulation between the cable and the case that wasn't there before. At least for me, the new/modified hardware has fixed it.

For those not covered by AppleCare I wouldn't despair....yet. Think folks: was this a problem before 10.5.6? It might be that this version of the OS has a lower tolerance for the heat generated by charging batteries and that a fix will come with 10.5.7. That's due any day now, the logs say.

Hope this helps!

Mar 16, 2009 6:04 PM in response to georose

For what it's worth, one new wrinkle. If you have an Apple Remote or can borrow one, hold down the start/pause button for about 3 seconds *after a lock up* and your mac should go into sleep mode. After a few seconds touch any key and it should wake up. Mine does. So IR, Screen hinge button, and I'll bet bluetooth and USB might "fix" things by putting unit in sleep mode as well. Why does going to sleep fix the keyboard???

Mar 17, 2009 5:39 AM in response to georose

I've been having this problem too, and I finally got round to calling Applecare on it.

The Tech had me:

1) Power off
2) Remove the battery and remove the power cord
3) Hold the power button for 10 seconds

Obviously, with no power and no battery nothing appears to happen, but apparently this resets the SMC which deals with power management

4) Reconnect the battery
5) Power on with Cmd-Opt-P-R to reset the PRAM, hold for 3 Bongs
6) Release keys and reboot as normal.

Since doing this procedure (about a week ago) I've not had any further problems. I'm just crossing my fingers that it doesn't re-appear.

Mar 17, 2009 5:49 AM in response to WeeBull

@WeeBull It WILL reappear again since you have the problem. The SMC reset is well known and does temporary fix the problem, it could fix it for a week or you could experience it again 3 hours after you did it resulting in doing it again.

The only way, only-way, you will fix the problem is to take it in for a new top-case. Tell them the same problem you are having that we all either have experienced or still are and you will have no problem. Obviously, if you are out of warranty, you do have a problem as it costs a few hundred dollars for a replacement.

Mar 17, 2009 6:06 AM in response to mistical

I agree, the problem will return. That is the standard first response when you call Apple Care with a hardware issue.

I had my keyboard and top case replaced months ago and the problem came back. I called Apple Care and they told me I needed a new Logic Board so I mailed in my MacBook Pro yet again.

I got it back yesterday, and instead of replacing the Logic Board they replaced the Keyboard and Top Case a SECOND time. How bloody annoying!!! It's been 24 hours without a problem but I am certain it will return in a week or two.

Mar 17, 2009 12:25 PM in response to mistical

Mine wouldn't respond after sleep, plastic-on-ribbon-under-battery, remote control... nothin'.

Only bluetooth or USB keyboard/mouse would be of any use or I had to cold-restart with power button. Basically it became a desktop machine.

I just had the top case replaced in Switzerland, out of warranty. All working fine now, but for how long who knows...

Apr 7, 2009 12:39 PM in response to georose

My macbook pro is 1 year and 1 month. I called apple today and they said it is too late to get apple care. They replaced the battery because it did not recharge. I left it plugged in all the time, but if the plug fell out, by the time I plugged it back in (within less than a minute ) it was off. Since the new battery I get an static charge from the track pad and that will freeze it and the keyboard. I can plug in a mouse and move the cursor that way but must restart to use the keys. I have a wood floor and no rugs in the house. I don't get static shocks elsewhere in the house. Any solutions??? This happens plugged in, I still have that habit even though it holds a charge now. Will try unplugged to see if it makes a difference.

Apr 9, 2009 4:02 PM in response to deedee7

Ok, I think I might have a solution to the dead keyboard/trackpad problem - at least maybe for some people. I haven't seen this posted yet, anyway.

About 2 months ago my keyboard/trackpad went intermittent dead and it grew progressively worse. I used the solution posted on several boards to put a piece of napkin between the battery and the ribbon keyboard cable as well as the copper connection and it worked fine for a while, but the keyboard/trackpad eventually went dead again. This time the problem was not solved with the napkin/plastic method.

Then I realized that the silver ribbon on my macbook pro was placed above the translucent plastic sheet covering the keyboard connector. But it is apparently supposed to be firmly fixed to a black plastic flap beneath the plastic sheet. See following link for illustrations (step 10 and 11):

http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repair/MacBook-Pro-15-Inch-Core-2-Duo-Model-A1260-Ke yboard/663/4

So I just removed the plastic sheet and opened the black plastic flap as described on above link. I placed the tip of the ribbon beneath it and closed the black flap again. And put on the translucent plastic sheet again. Now everything works perfectly.

Now, I think the silver ribbon is supposed to be like this when the macbook pro is new - and maybe it is for many who has this problem. Anyhow, I don't believe mine was. I don't see how I could previously have manipulated the ribbon out of place as only today I removed the plastic sheet. Also the silver ribbon was slightly glued to the top of the plastic sheet.

If people are experiencing dead keyboard/trackpad they should therefore check if the silver ribbon cable are in place beneath the translucent plastic sheet and locked to the black plastic flap.

Good luck!

Message was edited by: matklo

Apr 22, 2009 11:00 AM in response to georose

A while back I posted that reseating the cable fixed it, but that turned out to be a temporary fix (some hours).

I recently found another solution, and it's worked for two days now with no glitches. So, here it goes:

1: Remove the battery. Feel free to do this while your laptop is on, if you don't mind the risk of a sudden shutdown if you hit the power cable.
2: Carefully peel off the plastic cover over the circuitry, revealing the two cable hooks. There should be one orange, and one grey.
3: Disconnect the orange cable. Yes, doing it while the laptop is on is probably just fine. There's a lever of sorts along the side of the connector that is opposite to the cable, that you need to pop up first; use a fingernail.

Now, remember, one solution to this problem seems to be to apply pressure to this cable. So, therefore...

4: Carefully bend the cable backwards (out from the laptop) - the entire cable from where it becomes wider, but not further. Make sure it's a smooth curve, without any sudden bends. Bend it far enough that, when you release it, it stays either perfectly straight or is just slightly bent backwards.
5: Reconnect the cable, push the lever down, put the plastic cover back on and push the battery back in.

With this, there will no longer be tension from an outwards bend - or there will be tension, but inwards. It's a bit difficult for me to tell which it was, but with any luck this will fix the problem. It did for me.

May 4, 2009 5:12 AM in response to Baughn

Thanks for everyone's contribution. For me the solution was a little different so I would like to add my 5cts:

First, make sure you are really affected by the hardware bug:
Try zapping PRAM see http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1379
If you have followed the instructions and you do not hear the chime the second time then the keyboard wasn't even recognized by the hardware - you most likely have the "bend" cable problem.

Some of the posters seem to have a problem with the white cable under the battery, for me it was the *small orange cable* leading to the keyboard from the motherboard.

Diagnosis was difficult since the keyboard would not come alive if I pressed the cable during the system running. However *if the correct pressure was already applied during start-up*, I finally got it to work again.

My fix was to cut out some cardboard of the size of the fingernail and apply it to the bend on the orange cable with a little Scotch tape.

Let's see how long it last...

Keyboard/Mousepad Freezes

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