mail message background color
In previous versions of macOS, you could easily change the color of the background of an individual outgoing message. This was useful for lots of things but I particularly liked using it for happy birthday messages to friends. It was easy to do. You highlighted all the text, selected font, clicked on the icon at the top of the font window for changing the background, chose your color and you were done. Now, in Big Sur, that option seems to have disappeared. I've searched the web and Apple support with no luck in finding even a mention of this issue. Can someone please help me? Thanks.
Mac Pro, macOS 11.1