Big Sur 11.2.3 – no more sound devices in the menu bar

Apparently my Mac updated overnight to macOS 11.2.3 and since this morning I can't access most (virtual) sound devices through the menu bar.

That arguably being quite an okay cleanup, I also can't access my input devices with alt+clicking the speaker symbol in the menu bar, which bothers me a lot.

Is there any .plist file or setting I can change to have it back as it was before?

Thanks!