new iPhone SE can't download apps

I can't download apps from the App Store. First I was stuck in an endless loop, being asked to enter my Apple ID over and over. Then I was told I had to set up iTunes and to use my Apple ID to login, which never progressed. I've applied various "fixes" I've found and now the problem manifests in a different way: I can get into the App Store, but when I ask to download specific apps, I just get a spinning grey circle. No "pause/resume" buttons. No progress. My reading suggestions a stalled download, but I have no idea how to see that or fix it.

Can't believe what a total pain in the butt this phone is to set up. And Apple Support isn't available! Fuming. Grateful for any suggestions.