Magic Mouse keeps losing connection

putting the piece of paper in between the batteries helped.....to an extent......after I thought that it helped..... connection lost. Do I need to buy a new Apple wireless mouse? someone said reset the PRAM and something else? What is that?

gary

BOTTOM LINE

Just use the rechargable batteries Apple recommends and you shouldn't have any problems. Ever since I got 3 sets of them, I've never had an issue. Perhaps it shouldn't have to be that way, but it is what it is and that fixed my magic mice.

I been using the same type of batteries since I got my iMac in 2010, for me this issue just started in the last year and a half I see the issue as Junk Chinese Parts thats the bottom line! The fix aluminum foil, and a piece of paper....what a joke

This thread is now three years old - Happy Birfday Fred!

I've had the same problem all of the rest of you here have had. I used washers and folded paper and that fixed it. I used rechargables for a while but found they drained too quickly, so I now use Duracell. All has been fine until a couple of days ago. I checked the paper, the washers and the batteries - all OK. Then I noticed something really silly and thought I'd pass it on just in case it helps others. When I turned the mouse over to check the status of the little green light, I suddenly realised that the little switch below it was in the halfway position. Moved it up to its correct position and all is well.

I've used this mouse for a couple of years and I really like it. I keep a Logitech wired mouse nearby just in case and, when I need to change the batteries on the Apple mouse, I use the Logitech for a bit. There's no contest - for me, the Apple mouse is brilliant. Sorry for those of you that don't agree. However, I do agree that Apple should never have allowed this faulty design to go through. As others have said, it is perfectly possible to design a battery compartment that works and I have all sorts of stuff that is battered about far more than my mouse, without any problems. Better luck next time, Apple!

Hi, I have an iMac and the magic mouse, and went thru ALL (each & every) the frustrations of it dropping connections..... over and over.... One day, when I accidentally left my iPhone (Bluetooth turned ON) on my kitchen cupboard.... I didnt lose connections anymore.... Batteries were not the problem - tried them all - and three different chargers. I use the Apple Charger and batteries... It Was/IS the darn cell phone bluetooth signal. Moved it 15 feet away, and all is well. Spread the Cheer 🙂

Hi, I have an iMac and the magic mouse, and went thru ALL (each & every) of the frustrations of it dropping connections..... over and over.... One day, when I accidentally left my iPhone (Bluetooth turned ON) on my kitchen cupboard.... I didn't lose connections anymore.... Batteries were not the problem - tried them all - and three different chargers. I use the Apple Charger and batteries... It Was/IS the darn cell phone bluetooth signal. Moved it 15 feet away, and all is well. Spread the Cheer 🙂 🙂 😀 😎

I noticed a lot of different solutions and tried all of them, NONE of them worked except this one.

First I'd like to document the issue.

1. Purchased a NEW (late 2014) magic mouse, used flawlessly with an older (mid 2011) MacBook Air.

2. Purchased a NEW 2015 MacBook Pro, sold the Air and paired the existing magic mouse

3. Had the issue of the Mac randomly disconnecting the mouse once every 30 minutes - 1 hour. Very strange because the bluetooth keyboard stayed connected.

4. Definitely NOT corroded terminals in the battery compartment as the mouse was new

5. Was able to use the trackpad and reconnect the mouse without moving it, so it had NOTHING to do with loose / wiggling batteries.

6. Tried the 'piece of paper' trick and new batteries, no change in the issue.

7. Tried deleting 'Bluetooth PAN' from network settings - no change

8. Tried disconnecting Mouse and re-pairing/ restarting - no change.

ALAS the solution:

Turn off bluetooth, DELETE your bluetooth preferences file and restart.

Finder > Go > Mac HD > Library > Preferences

Find

'com.apple.Bluetooth.plist'

if you're nervous about deleting this, rename it with '.old' at the end - when asked if you're sure, say yes.

Restart your computer, OS X will rebuild a new .plist file.

Delete the old one, if you haven't done so already.

Fixed!

I did a variation of this fix. The battery size seems to be the issue and i found 2 solutions while looking around and finally i came up with my own solution.

1. Put a larger brand battery in the mouse (Energizer Suggested)

2. Put some aluminum foil between the contacts to eat up some of that space.

My solution (probably out there but have not read):

Get a .050 Allen Wrench (Really small)

Remove the battery case from mouse

Unscrew the 2 bolts holding the batteries in the case

Pull (OEM)the batteries out

Push back some of the tape or covering that is blocking the leads

(KEY) use the Allen wrench to push the 2 negative contacts in a little making a tighter fit for the batteries (be careful not to break them off)

Put batteries back in and and reassemble.

I have been 2 days now without a disconnect (Yippie)

Oravec, et al.

I

Re the Magic Mouse drop-out issue.

Might this be an answer…? I might have missed it on the thread but haven’t time to trawl through two years worth of postings.

Take one

• cotton-bud

• squirt of Isopropanol electrical switch cleaner

• quick scrub over the terminals of the mouse and the batteries - why not?)

Nothing like a controlled experiment…

I have two iMacs side by side. One mouse has the problem and is the older by two years.

I tried swapping the mice over - the problematic mouse still presented the problem.

I frequently have mobiles, a trackpad and other bluetooth devices on the desk.

Used the Isopropanol and the drop-out problem went away.

Chemically clean is the target, not just visually I suppose.

Result - a happy staff. (Just me)

Foil and other “conductors” may just introduce more resistance and at the amperage level involved, more work for the cells.

Hi I tried every solution and the only one that worked was getting a Targus Bluetooth adapter (cheap on Amazon but expensive in Staples). I disabled my internal bluetooth and used the adapter. I keep the mouse close to it and now it works fine. When I say that I tried every thing, I tried every thing. Hope this helps you! Good luck!

A follow-up to my earlier post. I posted the following in reply to someone on another thread who has had trouble with the new Duracell batteries - thought it might help.

The button on the positive end of the new Duracell AA is just too big to go into the recess and touch the terminal. I tried packing with aluminium foil but that didn't work. Here's what I did, but do take care! You need to find two hexagonal nuts that are just small enough to fit into the recesses. I would guess it's an M1 or M2. Hold the mouse so that the recesses are downwards, drop the nut in to one of the recesses, then fit the battery. In order to do this you have to push the positive end of the battery onto the nut while keeping the sprung negative connection at the other end of the battery compartment compressed. I did this by inserting a long, slim knife blade between the bottom of the battery and the sprung negative terminal. Now repeat the process with the second battery. It does work. I've tried all the other tricks with bits of card, washers and so on but this really does work with the new Duracells. Good luck!

I've found that the only batteries that work in my magic mouse without dropping out a million times per day are DURACELL these seem to be a bit bigger, I have this problem with any other battery type.

I am going to try the Durcell thing. I am really starting to get annoyed. i am starting to look for an alternative. It is a total waste of time and gives apple a black eye. My logitech mouse functions well but it does not have the features or I would turn this apple mouse into post consumer waste.

I recommend you give it a try, USSSSj. It's the first time since I've had my magic mouse that I've had no problem, after fitting the Duracells as I described above. I'm now down to 12% battery and about to fit a new set of Duracell.

If you haven't got it, download the app BtBatSat. It puts an icon in your finder toolbar that tells you how low your batteries are. There's also ab option for the Apple wireless keyboard and the icons sit there side-by-side in my finder bar. Recommended!

Good luck with your Duracells!

Hi People,

You will be surprised what solved the problem for me.

Apart from wedging paper, what I found was if you clean the + positive connection inside the mouse thoroughly then the problem is solved!

The reason why wedging is ok is because you are putting more pressure on the batteries. The dirt accumulated will be squashed and it connects. After a while dirt accumulates again and you need more paper.

Its actually the dirt that is preventing the batteries from connecting and I bet no one ever cleans the connections! Try it!

Derek