Testing MacBook Air Battery

I have a MacBook Air, Early 2015 model, that suffered water damage last week and now only works when plugged in. The Apple System Diagnostics test shows that the battery is dead - or more precisely, that there is zero current flowing from it; more on this in a moment - but that everything else in the computer is working. Led to believe that the Genius Bar has better diagnostic equipment than I, I took my MBA in for an appointment, where upon hearing the words, "Water spilled" whisked it off to the back, returning 15-20 minutes later with the proclamation that yes, there was water damage, 4 sensors worth indeed. They also told me that they tested the battery, and the batter was fine; the damage was to the I/O controller, so the only way to fix it was to replace the motherboard.


What I want to know is, can they test this at the Apple Store, and if so, can I test it at home? There was something about the guy I was working with that was a little off, like he was defensive when I tried to ask him more detailed questions, and this detail about the battery being fine only came out at the end of the conversation, as I tried to work with him to understand my options fully.


There is a big difference b/w a hosed motherboard, at which point the combination of cost and complexity of repair means I might as well get a new machine at around $1k, and a new battery at $80 that I can replace myself.


The way I would naively test it is to swap batteries with another macbook air - I have my previous two, both of which are from the same period from 2010-2017 which an iFixit product page claims should have compatible batteries. Does this work? Is this risking any sort of damage from putting non-working batteries into a working power system, or vice versa?


Thanks!!!


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Here's the full story of what happened:


I spilled water through the vents at the back of my MacBook Air. I had fallen asleep at the table at the end of a late night work session, and knocked the glass over in my sleep, so I don't remember the exact state of the computer before the water hit it - ie on or off - but I believe I had been asleep long enough that it was probably off or asleep as well (ha). I immediately turned it upside down so water would drain out, and then pulled out my handy Torx and Pentalobe screwdrivers, took off the back, and drained a scary amount of additional water out. Next I took out the battery, again finding significant amounts of water underneath and around it. At that point I very gently with the edge of a paper towel, after grounding myself, soaked up any obvious, visible water, I considered taking more components out to help things dry even more, but when I started reading the instructions on iFixit I realized that the risk/reward was no longer in my favor, particularly given the working environment available to me (a living room floor, no anti-static or grounding equipment). Unfortunately, it was only at this point that I read that I was supposed to handle the battery only be the plastic around the edges and not touch the exposed lithium ion battery packs. Oops.


I left the MBA open to dry for about 36 hours before putting it back together and booting back up. As stated previously, it works fine as far as I can tell, when plugged in, but dies immediately as soon as the plug is removed.


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MacBook Air 13", macOS 10.14

Posted on Jul 22, 2019 8:56 AM

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Jul 22, 2019 10:27 AM in response to jman79

Many times with liquid damage in that area on the MacBook Air 2013-2017, the liquid will damage the I/O Cable connectors on the Logic Board and/or the I/O Board itself. Sometimes you can tell by the diagnostic error message, but usually it is a visual inspection. It does take a trained eye to detect the damage sometimes.


If Apple sees a liquid sensor is tripped or if they see even the tiniest bit of liquid residue or corrosion on a part, Apple automatically considers the part damaged and needs to be replaced since there is no way to guarantee the repair otherwise. The liquid itself isn't always the part that kills a laptop, but it is the corrosion that builds up later which shorts out the connections on the boards or ruins the contacts. This is why Apple insists on replacing the liquid damaged part even if it appears functional.


If the spill was on the battery you need to be very careful since you did remove some signs of the extent of the liquid spill by cleaning it up. The electronics within the battery is not sealed, but are hidden so the battery electronics are not easily visible to a technician for evaluation.


From your description of the liquid spill and the behavior of the laptop afterwards, I don't see a problem with the quoted repaired since we cannot see the laptop itself.


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Testing MacBook Air Battery

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