There is one specific issue that is the most troubling and that is the disconnect while using WIFI that happens in a specific location without question. What needs to be understood is that there are two different aspects to what is going on while CarPlay is being used, 'audio stream' and 'phone projection'. Being in the IT field, I am always looking at the complete picture to figure out what is causing an issue. Here is the 'known' factors in this issue.
1. Cable doesn't matter. In most of these situations, the CarPlay feature has been disabled from the USB port. (I say 'disabled' and not 'removed' because it has been proven the feature can be turned on.)
2. The drop does not completely break CarPlay. It does completely break 'phone projection'. Once past the affected area, audio streaming will start to work again. Projection does not and will just show a black screen or the phone will fail to connect.
3. There is no recovering from the issue without shutting the car off and allowing the WIFI to power off.
On 'Point 1', like others, I have changed the CPU Variant in the Engineer's menu to turn the USB CayPlay option back on. In my case, CPU Variant 1 worked (4 did not). With option 1 selected, I got USB CarPlay but no WIFI option. I'm sure there are other CPU options that will enable both but didn't want to mess with it. I did notice that in the CPU Variant I used, my GPS when using Maps was acting a bit funky. I assume that is from some other setting that got enabled in that CPU Variant that the car didn't like or wasn't set up for. I did change it back to the original setting and the GPS issue went away. While using the USB CarPlay, I had no issues with the connection when driving through the affected area and had no assumption that I would. Side note, it looks like each CPU Variant is just a collection of settings for different car configurations. Each Variant will turn on and off settings based on the car’s features and options.
Point 2, You can tell that CarPlay is still connected by looking at the home screen on the head unit. Plus, if you were using navigation on your phone at the time of the disruption, your phone’s screen would be showing ‘turn by turn’ directions and not the map, as the phone assumes the map is being projected to the head unit.
Point 3, I haven’t spent much time on this one. Usually, after a ‘location’ disruption, I get to my destination, do what I need to do and, by the time I get back in the car, it works again. I have tried after getting home from work to spend a little time trying to see what is needed to get it to work again (I drive past the disruption point on my daily commute) but have yet to figure it out. In my car (2022 Kia Soul), almost every action affects the system. If I open the door and get in, as soon as the door closes, it fires up the WIFI connection and the phone is connected before I ever put the key in the ignition. Even the key has some affect on when the system activates or deactivates. After getting home, I have shut the car off, removed the key, opened the door (to kill the head unit), closed the door, locked the car, and then reversed the process, as if getting in the car to go somewhere. In that amount of time, the connection issue is still there. If I fire the car back up and try to project the phone, it will not. It is only after an unknown extended amount of time that it all works as it should. The only thing I can assume is that the WIFI or the system as a whole needs a few minutes to fully shut down. I have returned to the car in as little as 5-10 minutes and it will work fine.
In any case, these are the things I have found in trying to troubleshoot the issue. Whatever is causing these ‘area specific’ disruptions, it is, so far, an unrecoverable event, at least until the car has been shut off for a short amount of time. Rest assured, when I take my car in to get it addressed, they will have a very complete picture!! LOL