How can I change the default font and contrast for OSX Monterey menus

I like lots about Monterey but not the fact that the menus are nearly invisible. I've looked into accessibility settings thinking there might be some customization options, but none are simple basic default font / color changes I want

For example in Apple Mail, the side and top menus now have a spindly little font with so little weight that the text just fades into the pinky-grey background. I can change the color of my messages, of course, but haven't found anything for the interface frame.

In General settings, I've found the font size control, which works but makes the window sidebar larger than the main window things, like folders and documents in Finder.

I suppose some clever person decided that the sidebar is secondary information, so it should fade into the background. Who the heck did they test this with? Young graphic designers in perfect light?

Cool is not the same as usable.