iMac 27” Mid-2011 SSD install - fan control

I’ve bought a Samsung 860 1TB ssd to install in my iMac to replace the spinning HDD.


I keep reading about fan issues after doing this and am getting confused. Some people say you need to buy a new sensor at around £40. Whilst others seems to use some software to control this.


Can anyone shed any light on what the best thing is to do? I would prefer to not have to spend another £40 on additional cables if it can be controlled by software?


Hope you can help.

Posted on Nov 30, 2018 3:53 PM

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Posted on Dec 1, 2018 9:44 AM

I will look to get the correct cable.

According to OWC (aka <http://MacSales.com>) the special cable was ONLY needed for the Late 2009 thru Mid-2010 iMacs. <OWC Digital Thermal Sensor for 2009-2010 iMac HD Upgrade>


You 2011 iMac should not have the Fan issues. You should not need a special cable, and you should not need fan control software.

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Dec 1, 2018 9:44 AM in response to mdavenport

I will look to get the correct cable.

According to OWC (aka <http://MacSales.com>) the special cable was ONLY needed for the Late 2009 thru Mid-2010 iMacs. <OWC Digital Thermal Sensor for 2009-2010 iMac HD Upgrade>


You 2011 iMac should not have the Fan issues. You should not need a special cable, and you should not need fan control software.

Nov 30, 2018 7:13 PM in response to mdavenport

I did not think this was a problem in the 2011 iMacs.


But if it still is you could run

SSD Fan Control (free)

<http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/>


I used this for a few years on my Late 2009 27" iMac until I got the <http://MacSales.com> special SATA cable with a small temp sensor and electronics built into the cable.


So worse case, you run SSD Fan Control until you either replace the iMac, or you decide to get the MacSales special SATA cable.

Nov 30, 2018 4:18 PM in response to mdavenport

Per SOLVED: Can I replace iMac's harddrive with an SSD? - iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2428 - iFixit replies, a replacement sensor cable is the preferred solution here, if you're replacing the existing HDD with an SSD.


So your plan here is to ignore that recommendation and override the system firmware thermal management and throttle down the fans through add-on software and to partially disable some of the thermal input sensing? Well, it's your Mac. Hope that it doesn't get too warm for the throttled-down fans, and that whatever sensing the software implements properly detects the thermals throughout the system, including the thermals in the area of that not-sensor-connected SSD.


Given that this iMac is already a fairly old Mac, there's also a case to be made for not bothering, and just planning to replace the iMac when something (else?) fails.


Or the short answer: are you feeling lucky?

Dec 1, 2018 10:51 AM in response to mdavenport

I was unaware of that one. I was looking up the unit I put into my Late 2009 27" iMac, and I made the wrong assumption it applied to all iMac models. I was wrong. Sorry.


OWC is very good at what they do with Mac hardware. I've used them for RAM, rotating disks, that special temp sensor SATA cable, and DVD to SSD converter kit. All of it has worked as advertised.


So if they had the need to create a temp sensor cable for the 2011 iMac, then I would assume it is needed. There I go again, making assumptions 🙂

Dec 1, 2018 11:11 AM in response to mdavenport

mdavenport wrote:


Is there way to confirm this?


Call OWC. They’re a reputable bunch.


That that cable even exists certainly implies that they expect it’s necessary for reliable operations.


But then there’s always the “YOLO“ strategy here, too. A 2011-vintage iMac lacks support for Metal graphics and thus can’t be upgraded to macOS 10.14 Mojave, after all.

Dec 1, 2018 12:07 PM in response to mdavenport

You’re fundamentally misunderstanding the permutations and the complexity, here.


What you think of as a single immutable “brand-model” device? That can vary,


Storage and peripheral and I/O devices are routinely revised without changing the product name, and the different firmware revisions that arise can have substantial effects on compatibility. You’ll see revisions listed on most devices, but what’s changed in those revisions is often known only to the vendor. Sometimes the firmware can be reloaded or downgraded or upgraded, and sometimes not.


Again, you can keep asking this “will this work?” question, and the only way to be sure is to either try it, or to get support from somebody else that’s tried it and that has found it works.


Either you own the risks and the savings, or—if you want better certainty—somebody else owns part of the value of the work involved.


What you’re doing often works, but there can be wrinkles. Some of the wrinkles can be obvious, and some can be subtle.


Hardware is much more compatible than it once was, but “compatible” still means ”different”, or it’d be called “identical” and not “compatible”.


In short, plug it in, try it, see if it works. Or if somebody can tell you the exact revision of what they’ve tried here, you might get lucky... In this case, call up Samsung support, and see what they say.

Dec 1, 2018 7:51 PM in response to mdavenport

mdavenport wrote:


So would a basic test of putting it in a caddy and connecting it via usb be a sufficient test?

If that’s your final and intended configuration, certainly, that’s the right test you want to run.


But then I’ve also seen some completely wacky stuff happening on a USB, using on USB bus analyzer. USB-SATA bridges can vary widely, too.


Most commodity hardware will plug in and will mostly or entirely work as expected, but—having thoroughly ”enjoyed” the requirements for integrating third-party SAS and SATA disks onto the different models of the Apple Xserve servers—sometimes very specific parts are required.


Again, if you want to know if a hardware configuration works—and if somebody else is not already tested and is supporting it for you—plug it in and try it.

Dec 1, 2018 2:47 AM in response to mdavenport

Ask Samsung support if they support this.


If not, find a device that’s supported by Apple or a third-party for installation into a 2011 iMac, and install that.


Otherwise, you’re going to get to find out if this particular hardware and software and firmware combination works.


Doing your own integration means accepting the costs of the occasional mistakes.


Success and failure can be down to cables and connectors and specific firmware revisions, and specific OS patches and sometimes specific hardware revisions. There can be many variables. None of which documents all that well or all that easily, either. Which means making the occasional mistake, or finding and buying from somebody that has tried and is willing to support the particular configuration.

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iMac 27” Mid-2011 SSD install - fan control

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